Free Day!

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After spending lots of time with the entire family, I knew that I needed some time away.  When planning the trip, I figured that mid-week would be the perfect time for the boss and I to slip off for the day.  A few months ago, I rented a Jeep Wrangler from Discount Hawaii Car Rental.  At the end of the day, the best deal was to be had through Thrifty.  I would recommend using this company.  They were easy to work with and the price wasn’t bad.  I also realize that renting a Jeep isn’t the most cost effective or fuel efficient car to use, but since I drive a sensible SUV at home, it was kinda fun driving around Kauai with the top off and the radio blasting.

We picked the car up at the airport in Lihue shortly after 8 and then headed out from there.  The plan all along was to have no plan.  I really believe that when you are on this island, you have to allow time to just pass with no real plans.  We drove to Koloa with no real destination in mind and happened upon Koloa Mill Ice Cream and Coffee.  What a great find.  The coffee was half off until 9 and we just scraped in under the time limit.  2 great coffees, an apple pastry, and macadamia nuts for 8 bucks.  On Kauai, that is just like stealing.  Once we had walked around Koloa for a bit, we headed towards Poipu.  At one of the shopping centers along the way, we found Savage Shrimp.  This place is a must do.  The shrimp we ordered came with 2 scoops of rice and ours was cooked in coconut milk, cilantro, tomatoes, and a few other things.  They were very proficient in gluten issues and the guy taking our order even offered up some sightseeing tips for us.  In addition, the owner tried to buy the very shirt off of my back.  Apparently, this used to be a shrimp truck, but now she has taken up residence in the shopping village.  Go here and do what we did.  Buy your shrimp and head 5 minutes down the road to Price Kuhio Beach.  There is not a large beach here, but it’s just large enough to eat some shrimp and then go snorkeling.  After a bit here, we headed to the Spouting Horn.  Much like the Queen’s Bath, this is a neat thing to do if you’re in the area.  I would, in no way, make a special trip for it.

By this time, we had decided to turn back towards the east and north.  Our last stop on the very sunny and hot south shore of Kauai was Poipu Beach.  The snorkeling here was quite good and you didn’t have to go very far out to see some cool sights.  Still, for my money, the south shore feels a lot like many other beaches I’ve been to in my life.  It was hot, crowded, and after an hour or two, I had had my fill.  The great news is that just across the street from the beach is Brennecke’s Beachfront Restaurant.  We were seated right away and even though there was no dedicated gluten-free menu, the boss and I were able to put the breaks on the hunger pangs with a fish ceviche and an order of seared ahi.  I can’t guarantee that everyone would be ok, but I can say that the server was knowledgeable and very accommodating.  After several hours on the beach on the very hot south shore, 2 light fish plates and a couple of Mai Tais were perfect.

Our day without Lucy and Ethel was quickly coming to a close and there was still much to do!  We were fully pointed north by now, heading towards Kapa’a.  This is such a cool little town, we couldn’t just pass through without stopping to browse some of the shops.  We picked up a few souvenirs.  Even though I don’t generally buy kitschy stuff, for some reason I haven’t been able to stop myself on this trip.  Our big purchases in Kapa’a consisted of a Honu necklace for the boss and a t-shirt for me.  We still weren’t done.  On the way to our final stop we pulled in to Duane’s Ono Charburger in Anahola.  They don’t have a website or I’d link to it, nor do they have a gluten-free menu.  I found that ordering the burger without the bun and telling the server that there is an allergy involved, no issues were had.  I got the burger to go so we could make our final stop at Secret Beach.

Getting to Secret Beach involved a bit of a walk, though nothing like our previous “walks”.  On the bright side, it was all down hill to get there.  Once there, we were two of only about 20 folks on an expanse of beach at least a mile long.  We ate the burger, had some wine, and spent some time in the water.  About the water-don’t go in unless you are extremely confident in your ability to get back to shore.  When all is said and done about the beach, the thing that will stick with me the longest is the seclusion and the views, Kilauea Lighthouse to the east, setting sun to the west, and nothing but ocean in front.  The hike out wasn’t all that difficult to be almost vertical.  The boss was starting to get hungry so we went to the Princeville Shopping Center to find her something to eat.  I’m not sure of the name, but there is a gas station in the parking lot that makes fresh pizzas.  I can’t speak to their tastiness, even though we noticed after we ordered they have gluten-free crust, but the boss says that the pizza was ok.  It was inexpensive and that, in itself, is worth it.  While we waited for the pizza we went to Lappert’s for ice cream.  My passion fruit sorbet was fantastic.

And so, we made it back to Bali Hai.  Our kiddos arrived shortly after.  It sounds as if they had a great day on their own.  Apparently, Lucy even saw a sea turtle.  All in all it was a great day.  The break was much needed and now we are all recharged to finish out the vacation strong.  If you are planning to come to Kauai, I can offer this advice.  Take off your watch, talk to folks, and just see what happens.  Following these tips, the boss and I had a good day.  Now, who knows what fun tomorrow brings?

Adventure Day

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Whew.  Just flat out, whew.  One of things that I thought might be fun was to do the short 4 mile hike on the Kalalau Trail.  When doing all the research I do before I go somewhere I ran across some sites saying that this is fun activity and shouldn’t be all that difficult.  So, why not?  At the end of the 2 miles there is a beach that was supposed to be really pretty and is only accessible by foot or boat.  Everyone said to start early and plan on 4 hours or so.  Load up Lucy and Ethel here we go!  Being the intrepid traveler and Eagle Scout that I am, I knew that I would need to bring copious amounts of water and some snacks to refuel once we reached the beach and had to turn around to head out.  Most sites say to wear athletic shoes or hiking boots.  Many locals say that you can do it in flip flops, or slippahs, as they say.  I opted for the slippahs while the rest of the hearty crew went with tennis shoes.

Off we go.  Up.  Then up.  Then up again.  That can’t be, it’s flat!  No, wait.  Yep.  We’re going up again.  I thought, very mistakenly that the first mile would be up and then we’d descend to the beach.  Nope.  It felt like we went up almost the whole way.  You know the old saying that I used to have to go to school uphill, both ways?  That is this trail.  It never felt like we were going down.  I know that we did.  We started at sea level and ended there, but wow.  I’ll be completely honest, it was not an easy hike and the slippahs did work out fine for me, but that might just be me.  They were useful as I stood in streams to help Lucy and Ethel across and I always felt like I had control.  The boss was pleased with her choice in footwear.  The beach that awaited at the end was spectacular.  All of the guides say not to enter the water and with 87 confirmed drownings and 15 unrecovered bodies I wasn’t going to chance it.  Hanakapi’ai Beach is amazing and, to be as brutal as the trail was to us, it was worth it.  Of the 5 of us, 4 either slipped in the mud or fell in the water with Ethel getting the muddiest and Lucy getting the prize for most painful fall when she tried to split a boulder with her head.  Even with all the slips, I still say; go if you have the chance, but go early, take lots of water, a snack, and enjoy the fact that every single second will provide you with views that are unparalleled, or as Lucy said “This can’t be real”.

Once we survived the Kalalau Trail we drove through Hanalei, stopped for shave ice, and then went back to Bali Hai for lunch.  The family seemed to be moving a bit on the slow side so it seemed that resting a bit might be a good call.  Even though my movements on the trail were likened to a mountain goat, I must admit that the rest was nice.  Leftover tuna and brown rice on the lanai was a great way to pass some time.  While waiting for everyone to recharge their batteries I decided to go online and try to reserve our Na Pali boat ride for Friday.  I was told that this was something that could be booked once we got to Kauai.  Don’t wait.  Every company I called was sold out.  This seriously bummed me out because this was the one excursion I was willing to pay through the nose to do and now I won’t.  If seeing the coast is important to you, book early.  If they have to cancel because of the sea conditions, at least you did all you could do.

Everyone was finally rested at some point so we made the trek to Queen’s Bath.  We had been told that it was an easy  20 minute walk to the Bath and then we’d be there.  Right.  This “path” was every bit as challenging as the Kalalau Trail was.  Once we went down from the parking area, I’d guess 150 feet, we arrived at what could best be described as a moonscape.  Here you can fully appreciate Kauai’s history as a volcanic island.  We traversed 200 hundred yards or so on the lava rock.  As we were walking I thought I saw some crazy fool snorkeling in water that was in no way suitable for people.  As I got closer I realized that I had seen my first Honu, or Green Sea Turtle.  They were huge and so graceful.  They made the ocean look positively calm.  Lucy, Ethel, and I kept walking and reached the Bath.  Our arrival there was met not with great fanfare, but with a great big raspberry.  They say that in the winter the waves crash over the rocks and create a great picture.  On this day there were no waves to speak of and we were able to get in the water.  After walking 45 minutes (one way) jumping into water that clocked in at 88 degrees wasn’t all that great.  Am I glad I saw it?  I suppose.  Would I go back?  Nope, not at all.  If you are in the area and want to take a look, go for it.  When you get back you can tell me all about it.

That was the day.  We walked what felt like 100 miles, but was probably closer to 6.  It is important to remember that all of those miles were uphill.  The girls were thrilled to come home to spaghetti and salad on the lanai with Liliko’i Sorbet for dessert.  I would absolutely do the Kalalau Trail again and the next time I’ll go the little bit further to get to the waterfall.  To this point Kauai has more than exceeded my expectations.  Tomorrow, I have a jeep rental for a couple of days.  Maybe I can convince the boss to ride around and check out some properties in the area…

Surf’s Up!!!!

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As a new surfer (a kook if you will), I was thrilled to find out I’d be visiting the birthplace of surfing.  I visited the Duke Kahanamoku statue in Honolulu, I went to the Banzai Pipeline and Waimea Bay, but one thing was missing.  That one thing was actually surfing in Hawaii.  This was something that had to remedied.  Somehow I managed to convince the boss and her mom that they too could surf with the proper instruction.  Lucy and Ethel, the Groms in the family, could hardly be contained they were so excited.  Finally, the day arrived.

We had to be at the location to sign all of the necessary paperwork in Hanalei at 7:30 and we nailed the timing.  I looked at so many different surf instruction companies in Hanalei I feel I could write a book just on this one thing, but I decided on Hawaiian Surfing Adventures.  These guys were absolutely awesome to deal with.  From check-in to wrap-up they were great.  They split the family into adults and kids.  Evan took Lucy and Ethel and within minutes had them riding their waves on in and even riding all the way to the beach.  The boss and her mom took a bit longer, but with the help of their fantastic instructor, Chaz, they too, were able to catch waves despite themselves.  There is something quite amazing about watching two ladies who previously had no confidence in their abilities to ride a wave do just that.  As for yours truly, I let Chaz know right off that I was a kook (look it up).  The best thing he said to me all day after one of my rides was that I was definitely less kookish.  I don’t know what comes after kook, but I think I am there.  Now to convince the boss to buy another board when we get home.

Having conquered the waves of Hanalei, we decided that it was time for lunch.  My gluten-free app for my phone let me know that there was a restaurant in Kapaa that would be good.  Eh, that was too far.  Wait, could it be?  It is!  A new location right in “downtown” Hanalei!  Chicken in a Barrel!!!   I had the sampler platter and the chicken, ribs, beef, and pork was absolutely fantastic.  I would, without a doubt, make a beeline for this place and eat there every time I am in Hanalei.  The food was great and the setting could not have been better.  The whole family ate there and all left very happy!  There are other restaurants in Hanalei, but for the price and the peace of mind, I don’t think you can go wrong here.

Once lunch was done we spent some time exploring the town and shops of Hanalei.  I love this town.  Everything is within a few hundred yards and while many of the shops have lots of similar products, it is still a great place to while away an hour or two.  Actually, I think I could stay here forever without hesitation.  So, dear friends, be advised, I’ll be relocating to the north shore of Kauai.  Feel free to consider my new home your home.  You are all welcome to crash here when in the islands.  Most people would consider this a full day, but those folks have never me Lucy and Ethel.  After all, we did rent snorkel equipment yesterday.

The afternoon found us near, though not actually at, Tunnels Beach.  Trying to park there was not possible so instead we spent some time at Ha’ena Beach Park.  We went to try and snorkel a bit and have some fun in the water.  Sadly, much of the area is devoid of sea life.  We managed to see some fish and the few we saw were remarkable but I wasn’t overwhelmed with the amount of fish.  The water was also less than clear so it was hard to see more than five or ten yards ahead.  My main memory of the two hours there was watching Lucy figure out how to dive to the bottom of the sea (probably around 30 feet down) and resurface while clearing her snorkel.  She really is quite good in the water.  After some time, we decided to head on back and cook dinner.  Tonight we grilled some Swordfish and Ahi with brown rice and roasted asparagus.  The fish we got at the Hanalei Dolphin Fish Market.  Was it pricey?  Yep.   But then again, everything here is expensive.  Taken altogether, it was still way less than a comparable dinner out would have been.

When asking Lucy, Ethel, and the boss what the highlight of the day was for them, I was thrilled to hear that the surfing topped their list.  Lucy and Ethel are both quite good at riding the waves.  The boss does ok and I was happy with the progress I made today.  Of the entire trip so far, today was the first time I felt relaxed.  We’ve been going so strong since last Thursday it was great to slow down, surf some, and spend some time on the beach.  Today we lived, we surfed, we ate.  In my book, that is a solid day.

Talk about a wow factor…

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Those of us with kids realize how very literal they are.  Sometimes, though, we take it for granted that they understand how some words can have more than one meaning.  Today, we were reminded of this as we got ready to head out of the door to start our day.  Ethel was busy unwrapping a disposable camera.  I asked her where her other one was since it still had a few shots left on it.  She calmly told me that she had thrown it away-it was disposable…Once we picked ourselves up off of the floor, we explained to her how disposable cameras work.  We couldn’t help but laugh, she took it literal and did what the camera told her to do.

This morning we avoided the restaurant scene by having breakfast at the condo.  We’re staying at the Wyndham Bali Hai Villas and it is a nice place.  I’ll give a more thorough review later of the accommodations.  Anyway, we left and headed towards the western side of Kauai to the Waimea Canyon.  This was one of the things that was on my list to do while here, so that was great.  We decided to stop at Kalaheo Cafe and Coffee Company for a snack before heading up to the canyon.  This was without a doubt the biggest bummer of the day.  I had done some checking and found that the place had gluten-free bread and a few gluten-free muffins.  I was stoked to get a BLT until I ordered and was told that they were out of bread.  I settled, very begrudgingly, for a muffin, ordered from a very dour employee.

Up the road we went to the Waimea Canyon.  The landscape on the south and west side of the island is so vastly different than the north.  The north is so green and lush and the southwest side is arid.  It wasn’t at all what one would expect on a tropical island.  The road to the end was about 20 miles long and to reach the end at the Na Pali Coast took around 2 hours, mostly because of the stops.  Each one offered a view that was different from the last.  By the time we reached the end we had basically traveled the width of the island.  Those of you who have been to the Grand Canyon know that no photo will ever do it justice.  The same is true for this ride.  I’ll put up a photo or two, but it will be a sad representation.

Down we came into the town of Waimea for lunch.  The Shrimp Station was on the agenda and the Spicy Thai Basil shrimp were great.  The staff was knowledgeable about gluten-free issues and when I asked what I could have from a relatively extensive menu, they immediately named two dishes.  Lucy and Ethel split some shrimp tacos that received rave reviews.  When in Waimea, this is a definite stop for those with gluten allergies.  From there we went to Jo Jo’s Shave Ice, which, according to their walls, has been rated the best shave ice on Kauai.  It was good.  I don’t know that I’d wait an hour again to get some of it, but it was good.  I suppose more than anything else, you go for the experience.  We also managed to get the boss her chilled coconut.

By now, it was closing in on 5, so we turned the minivan north towards Hanalei to go to the bay to go swim and use the equipment we got at Snorkel Bob‘s in Kapaa this morning.  The beach was devoid of tourists and seemed to be mostly local families having a good time at Back Pot Beach.  We played and enjoyed the cool water for around an hour or so and then headed back for baths and dinner, but not before one last stop for a sunset photo over Hanalei Bay.

So long Oahu…

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There is something quite comforting about going to a restaurant a second time.  The first time you go, there is always that sense of uncertainty.  How do I order?  Where do I wait?  Do I get my drink first?  This is just a partial list of all the complications that come from going to a new place.  Not today, my friends.  Returning to our successful breakfast stop from yesterday we again visited Ted’s.  This time, I went with the Denver omelet and had great success.  Lucy and Ethel split a 3 egg and rice combo with a side of bacon.  The main difference this time, is that we ate on the way to Pearl Harbor.

Ever since I knew about this trip to Hawaii, I decided that visiting Pearl Harbor and the USS Arizona Memorial was at the top of any Oahu to-do list.  I started checking on getting reservations for the Arizona back in February.  While I had to wait a bit longer, it definitely paid off.  You can reserve the tickets for a nominal fee at the Park Service web site and I highly recommend this.  The stand-by line was crazy long at 8:30 in the morning.  I also splurged for the audio tour which was worth it, I think.  The only drawback to the audio tour was I don’t really believe that they give you enough time on the Arizona to hear all of the parts of the audio tour.  Also, we were only permitted about 15 minutes on the Arizona herself and I believe that I could have spent more time.  Being in a place of such immense importance and solemnity was powerful.  Lucy and Ethel had good questions and if they only remember a small portion of the visit, then it was time well spent.  When in Oahu, you must visit Pearl and the USS Arizona.

After leaving Pearl, we headed towards Iolani Palace, home of the Hawaiian monarchs.  When we arrived near the palace, we saw some filming going on for the current reboot of Hawaii Five-O.  Even though we didn’t see any of the primary players, it was still interesting and Lucy and Ethel got to see just how many folks it takes to make a single scene of television.  Another benefit of visiting the palace was seeing the King Kamehameha statue.  I’ve seen the one in the US Capitol and while that was cool, seeing the original in its intended setting was even better.  I do believe that if you come to Hawaii, it is important to brush up a bit on the history so the importance of the person on the pedestal is clear.

Once we had our fill of Iolani and the King (not Elvis), we ventured over to the Aloha Tower.  Once the tallest building in Hawaii, it now seems to be lost in time.  There were lots of vacant shops in the area and the whole of the Marketplace seems to have fallen on harder times.  I will say, though, that a visit to the tower itself is worth the trip.  The ride to the top is free and even though it is not all that high, the vistas are great and it might be the only thing you can do for free in Honolulu.  It is also a great way to pass an hour or so until you return to the airport for your flight to…Kauai!!!

The approach to the Garden Isle is spectacular.  On our arrival the mountains were on the left and although we were on the other side of the plane, it was awesome.  The ride form Lihue to Princeville was beautiful and I can’t wait until tomorrow to get out and explore some of this island.  For dinner the family visited Frederico’s, a Mexican restaurant.  Most of the items were not gluten friendly and I thought I had hit on a salad until I saw them warming flour tortillas on the griddle with the grilled chicken.  I let the family eat and I headed to the grocery store for some food I could eat.  I knew Kauai was going to be pricey, but wow.  On the bright side, I know that I can get up in the morning and have a solid breakfast as we set out for Waimea Canyon.  I can’t wait.

 

Aloha!

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I believe that I have had quite enough of the traffic in Honolulu to last several lifetimes, and if you spend your entire time in the islands in the state capital, then you will have missed some great parts of Oahu.  But I’m getting a bit ahead of myself.  I feel that I first need to apologize for taking 3 days to make my first post of our trip.  To be honest, the drive to Charlotte and the stay at the La Quinta near the airport was not much to write home about.  Even in the most ordinary of hotels, though, interesting things can happen.  For the purpose of this trip, I’ll be referring to my girls as Lucy (my oldest) and Ethel (my youngest).  I do think that it’s time that we use an ice bucket in a hotel for the purpose for which it was intended.  Ethel was asked where I had gone at one point and she explained that I had gone to fill the “wine bucket”.  Apparently, our pre-trip bottle has become ordinary to her.  Since we had to get up at 4, we all turned in early.  Sure enough, at 3am, so I thought, an alarm sounded in the hotel for roughly 40 seconds.  Having had the stuffing scared out of me, I fell out of bed and attempted to silence the “alarm”.  It stopped on its own and I found myself on the floor, heart beating out of my chest.  I said “so I thought” because the hotel clock said that it was 3.  And since I was clearly awake after the alarm, I laid there waiting for the alarm on my phone that never sounded.  When I checked, the time was an hour early.  Thanks, La Quinta.

So we woke, we left, and we went to the airport.  There is something exciting about doing mundane tasks with someone doing it for the first time.  It was Lucy and Ethel’s first flight and they made it a joy for us all.  Such as when Lucy complained of “jet leg” and proceeded to work her leg out (clearly she meant jet lag).  I appreciated the fact that the flight attendants provide some “extra aloha” for my coke at no charge.  At 2pm we arrived in Honolulu at an airport that reminded me of Disney’s Polynesian Resort.  An rental car shuttle ride later, we were at Dollar Rent-a-Car driving off in our mini-van.  We headed north to our condo home for 2 nights and since we were all exhausted, we had some shrimp from Romy’s which, though not identified as gluten-free, left me feeling good.  I stuck with the garlic and butter shrimp and the spicy ones and had no problems at all.  So finally, we make it to today.

This morning we were all up fairly early, prior to 7, so we headed to a bakery on the advice of a friend who grew up on Oahu.  We ate at Ted’s Bakery in Sunset Beach.  Clearly, there is absolutely nothing gluten-free about a bakery but my family was so excited, I couldn’t deny them.  Lucy had a chocolate croissant that could’ve choked a horse and Ethel had a guava danish.  The boss had an omelet that looked really good, and I went with 3 eggs served with rice.  Again, no problems and the entire family left with full bellies and happy faces.  After eating, we started our circle tour of Oahu by heading east on Kamehameha Highway.  We happened upon our best view at our very first stop and after that, everything else was anti-climatic.  I will say that each stop was unique, offered a different perspective, and was pleasant.  In Kaneohe, we stopped for lunch at Mike’s Huli Huli Chicken.  Again, even though not labeled as gluten-free, the chicken left me feeling no pain and it was delicious.  I would highly recommend a stop.  After several hours we were back in Honolulu fighting traffic.  And people.  And traffic.  Our goal was the International Market and the Duke Kahanamoku statue.  We made it to both and even got a little walk in on Waikiki.  The beach was ok.  Way too crowded and it felt forced and like any other beach in the world.  So, I suppose you have to see it, but I wouldn’t dawdle.  My suggestion-go to Oahu, stay on the North Shore, and pay a brief visit to this metropolis-by-the-sea.  Our final two goals for the evening we to go to Haleiwa for shave ice and swim at Waimea Bay.  We batted .500.  Power was out in Haleiwa, so no shave ice was to be had, but we did manage to get in a chilly Pacific Ocean at Waimea Bay.

All in all, it was a good day.  Lots of time in the car which wasn’t bad and I did enjoy seeing the different parts of Oahu, not just Honolulu.  Now, how about a few photos…

Hi Everybody!

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This is a first.  Writing a blog is something that I never thought I would undertake.  Honestly, I am not sure that anyone will take the time to look at it, because my opinions are just that, opinions and might not be all that interesting to others.  I do think, however, that I am a savvy traveler and given all of the research I do before any trip and what I am willing to try once I leave Raleigh, I can help folks who will visit the locations where I have been.  Truthfully, it was my wife who gave me the encouragement (and the financial backing) to do this.  I guess that could mean you either have her to thank or blame for this.  I have several friends who also gave me some encouragement and you know who you are.  As we progress on this journey, I’ll introduce you to my family.  They are the source of lots of entertainment for those who know us.  Some of the places we go will be far away, some will be much closer to home.  For me, it doesn’t matter how far I have to go for it to be considered a trip.  Just going is good enough.  I’ve been lots of places and had lots experiences along the way.   I can say with certainty where I was bitten by the travel bug.  It was the summer of ’93 when I went on Teens Westward Bound and spent 23 days exploring America.  On that trip I learned the value of living each day in each new place as something to be treasured and that while the places I visit are amazing, it’s the people I go to these places with that create the memories.  If you had me against a wall and forced me to name my favorite destination to date, I’d have to say the Caribbean and most specifically Cuba.  Just this year I’ve been to Asheville NC, Maryland, DC, and Chicago so far.  Our next trip is this week.  We say good bye to North Carolina and aloha to our 50th state!  So my next entry will be this Wednesday from Charlotte as we prepare for the flight to Honolulu.  See you then!!!

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